3 sewing machines and no iron*

After loving Andreas Renfrew dress…

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…I decided I needed wanted to make one. So I bombarded Andrea with questions about how she made her and she was kind enough to give me great answers that actually made me change my mind.  Originally I was going to put a zip in the back and stabilize the waist with bias binding as I was a bit concerned about it stretching, she said she hadn’t stabilized the waist and made the point that I would need to stabilize the zip area with knit interfacing which I didn’t have.  I hadn’t thought about that so I decided to throw caution to the wind and go with the easier option and just sew it and see!  The fabric was stable thicker knit so I thought it would be ok,  it was from Ditto and on sale!

So what did I make?

…a great dress…

 

…with a great fit…

…front and back…

…with a half circle twirly skirt…

…and thread belt carriers…

What do you think? I love it!

For the record it was a Renfrew top which I took down quite a few sizes compared to the other Renfrews I’ve made, this was done in a completely unscientific way of making up the usual size and then hacking inches off the side seams of the top until it fitted!  I’ve now traced that final size onto the original pattern so I shouldn’t have the same problem next time (as I’m sure there will be a next time!). I decided on a circle skirt but wanted a half-circle, I looked at a few tutorials about making circle skirt and after getting husband to talk it through with me I kinda understood it (I got my GCSES maths but that was a lifetime and 2 children ago and it doesn’t make sense anymore!) so I cut the skirt and basted it on.  This was the point at which I realised the top needed taking in, Doh! I think the weight of the skirt made extra width look worse and it resembled a sack! So I took the skirt off (good job it was only machine basted and not knit stitched!) and did the aforementioned hack job.  Finally I had a fit I liked.   I topstitched the neckline using my lovely knit twin needle with one line of stitching either side of the seam line. 

and I didn’t use the original Renfrew sleeve bands, I added the length to the sleeve pattern and then turned the hem up and twin topstitched again.  I did this flat, before I sewed the sleeve to the bodice.

(Light is too bright, its not this blue!)

I also twin top stitched the hem after overlocking the edge and turning up just that small hem amount.  Making the thread belt carriers was a lot easier than I thought it would be.  I just ran some stitches off the overlocker and then threaded that through the side seams and back leaving enough width for the belt I was going to wear with it and tied the ends together inside.  All in all its a lovely comfortable dress and I can see myself making more if I find the right fabric.   This navy is a little plain and I wasn’t sure what accessories to wear with it as I’m usually a utilitarian-black-shoes kinds girl but I recently bought my-new-favourite-shoes lovely animal print ballet shoes from Clarks I thought they would add a little drama to the outfit without too much!  I don’t do too much drama!

So the title? Well I have 3 sewing machines, 2 regular sewing machines and an overlocker.  I’m not brave enough to just sew and trim the seams on the overlocker in one go so I sew on the regular machine first and then use the overlocker to trim and finish.  One sewing machine has a really good knit stitch (but a complete bugger to unpick) but the position and the way you put a needle in means you can’t use a twin needle as the needles end up one in front of each other rather than next to each other.  The other machine will allow me to put the twin needle in but no knit stitch so I I ended up using 3 machines to make one dress!  But I didn’t use the iron once (not something  to be proud of really but nice to experience once in a while) as the fabric was thick and easily manageable.  Since I’ve twin top stitched the hem that could do with a quick press as its a little bumpy but it didn’t stop me wearing it to a party last night!  It will also be perfect for school and that's why I can see more coming in my future even possibly for the Wedding I have later on in the year if I find suitable fabric.  At the moment, I’m fancying a Cambie in maybe a linen print (my favourite fabric) if I can find some great fabric. I’ve made the full skirted version but now I fancy the a-line version to have cleaner lines at my waist.  Will have to see what fabric I find and how long it takes me as I don’t have so much sewing time these days…

* http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0109831/

Sleepy Girl

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Karen over at DidYouMakeThat was commenting on how sometimes she’s too tired to sew.  I so with her on this one, by the time the day is over, I've finished work, college homework and the kids are in bed, I'm about ready to crash and I've lost count of the number of times I've fallen asleep on the settee (does it count if I fall asleep under the quilt I made?!) and yet another sewing opportunity has passed me by.  ATM I've got half a Renfrew dress cut out, I need to make 2 costumes for me to wear to work and 2 for Miss C to wear (we're in the same year group in  school so have the same homework!) and a book week costume to come up with for Miss M as well as the Rag Doll we’ve been making Christmas! My good intentions to have a handmade wardrobe went out the window the other day when I went to M&S and spent a LOAD of money on a working wardrobe, boo hoo!  I just don’t have the time and I’m won’t make myself feel guilty over it. So I have to prioritise and sometimes and even on the settee under the quilt watching the penguins is more important!

Lazy lazy lazy

I’m a very lazy sewer and even worse blogger! 

• I make things and forget to blog them
• sometimes I just think about making things for ages before I get round to finishing them
• sometimes I pause half way through making things to think some more! 

This post covers all these possibilities. 

I made yet another Renfrew top, this time with a  lovely knitted wool I bought from Ditto in Brighton a while ago

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as soon as I saw it I thought “Renfrew!!!” and it was on sale, bargainilious but as usual I sat and thought about it for a while.

So this is what I made!

I’ve also been doing some functional sewing like taking up trousers for Miss C (tracksuits, Brownies Uniform, School Trousers) even the arms on her Brownies T-Shirt! 

And thinking, well I’ve been blog-stalking Andrea at Four Square Walls after I saw her beautiful dress she made from Renfrew pattern and I thought, “I want one!”  I bought some Navy heavy jersey from Ditto and I’ve cut out the bodice, and now I’m doing some more thinking.  I’m thinking I want to do short sleeves but instead of the sleeve band I’m thinking hem and sew with twin needle.  The skirt I was originally going to do a full circle skirt but I think that's going to be too full so now I’m thinking half circle but tbh the maths is putting me off! I’ve found tutorials and calculators to do the maths for me but I not motivated enough to try it!  So now I have half a dress cut out on my sewing table!  To make things worse I’ve just got a new job in school starting after half term as well as going to college, as well as having 2 kids so I’m not going to have much time for sewing.  I might have to employ Tilly’s 15 a day strategy to get anything done.  I could do with finishing this dress as it would be great for school especially with some cool coloured tights!

Wedding Bells

I’ve been invited to a Wedding Reception on 1st June and I had an idea.  I’d like to make my whole outfit!  I was thinking a simple classic fit n flare kinda dress something which could be worn for work etc afterwards but that I could jazz it up with accessories, making my own belt, clutch bag, fascinator and if necessary some sort of shawl/bolero jacket/cover-up thingy!  What do you think?  Ideally I would like to draft the pattern myself but at the moment I thinking of something like a Colette Peony, Sewaholic Cambie or a Burda 101.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was thinking I’d make the dress in a solid colour and then accessorize in a contrast fabric, or maybe a floral.  At the moment I’ve got lots of options going round in my head, I’ve got a few months to do it so there's plenty of time to get it right and I know I’m not the Bride and I’m not making anything amazing like the Brides dress like Zoe but I want this to be a good learning project especially as I want to develop my drafting skills and now I have a direction to work in.  So I’ll be dipping in and out of this from time to time over the next few months. So much so that I made myself a badge!!

 

So the plan is

• draft my personal foundation pattern like I’ve been talking about foreva
• Try out different options for design aspect, neckline, sleeves, skirt etc
• Make a decision
• Choose fabrics
• Make Dress
• Make Fascinator
• Make bag
• Enjoy the wedding!

So I’ll be asking your advice at various times over the next few months with this project!

Sarah Lund Renfrew

Ok, ok, so I might have been late to the party but now I’m here I’m going for it!  Renfrew No2…

Look at the camera Louise!

That's better!

I saw this fabric in the show about a month ago and straight away thought it looked perfect for a Renfrew.

Its a knit but it looks like a Fair Isle knitted pattern.  Very Scandinavian hence the Sarah Lund reference.  As I’m rubbish at knitting its the closest I’m ever going to get to one of these beauties!

I used at 14 on the top half including the sleeves and graded out to a 16 about the waist.  I think it looks much better than the Stripy Renfrew I first made which was 16 all over. 

I spent ages making sure the stripes matched up well, the side seams are great and I basted them first to check before sewing for good.  I only had to resew 1 seam which was even better.  The only thing I couldn’t work out was to match the stripe across my chest with the stripe on the sleeve.  I spent ages walking the seamlines together to try to work out where they intersected but it didn’t work out.  As least the two sleeves are the same so its not as bad as it could be but if anyone has any advice on how to get the shoulder stripes to match it will be great fully received!

I’m really pleased with this version, its lovely and cuddly and although I’m wearing casually with jeans and boots today I think it would look great for work paired with a black linen skirt and thick black tights, or even red/burgundy tights, what do you think?  My only problem is the school where I work is really hot, I always wear lots of layers there and end up stripping off through the day!

So that's 2 Renfrews, I’m not done yet though, I’ve got loads of the stripy fabric left  so I might try a round necked or v-necked version next time, maybe with short sleeves.  I know everyone has said it but it really is a great pattern, very versatile, quick, straightforward to sew and so adaptable.  I might even try a simpler version without stripes soon!  

A Plea for help!!

Does anyone know where/if I can buy the latest edition of Threads Magazine from in the UK?

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I saw a recommendation for this magazine from Lorraine at IkatBag that there was a straightforward article on pattern drafting. If she says it worth checking out then I’m there, but I can’t seem to find it, I’ve been to WHSmith a couple of times and scoured all over the sewing/knitting section but can’t seem to find it.  Now on the website it says on sale Jan 1 2013, so my questions are:-

• Can we buy it in the shops in the UK?
• If so where?  WHSmith?  Somewhere else?
• Can it be ordered in especially if not?
• How long does it take to hit the shops in UK?
• Is it a good magazine? Does anyone in the UK subscribe?  I’ve never managed to find a mag that I like as I can find better ideas on peoples blogs than in most magazines, but Threads seems to have good quality contributors Susan Khaljie and Kenneth King being good examples and the information on the blog/website is good.

2012

Review time!  Well I majorly failed in achieving what I set out to do at the beginning of the year!  I was going to make a dress every month of the year to increase my sewing skills and to increase my wardrobe! Well that didn’t work! For the first few months it went well I made 4 dresses and a cheating dress for Miss C all of which I’ve worn regularly over the year.

But then deadline was getting to me, I was making Simplicity 2588 in a lovely navy gingham and it just turned into a disaster when I got the the collar stage.  I’d even made a muslin of this dress which looked good and I had high hopes.  I spent ages making sure that the gingham squares would line up but I think I put the collar piece on the wrong way round and by the time I realised I’d trimmed the pieces and broken my heart!  Its all in a bag, maybe I’ll revisit next year…

So I decided to stop pressuring myself and take a break.  From then on the rest of the year was great, I sewed what and when I wanted, I even got into hand sewing and hand quilted a quilt.I found it relaxing and enjoyable to sit there in the evening sewing away.  This was why I at the end of the year I finally had some success with crocheting. 

My best successes this year were designing and drafting a costume for Miss M and making my Stripy Renfrew top although the kids LOVE the quilt!

I enjoyed the process of making a sloper/block for Miss M and the freedom to design whatever we wanted.  It made me go back to my long dreamed of ideal of having a basic block for me and adapting it.  I’m not going to set myself the challenge of doing this as from past experience I’ve found it doesn’t work, plus since last year I’ve now got 2 jobs and doing a Teaching Assistant course which tons of homework each week!  Hopefully I will be getting more work next year so I’m not going to put any more pressure on myself, but I would like to draft out a basic bodice and go from there instead of buying the same type of dress all the time and making similar adjustments all the time.  I’d also like to make more Renfrews as they are just great and perfect for work in school so I’m on the look out for lovely knits.  I’d like to try more crochet but not sure what yet, it was great to have a target and theme of Christmas for the bits I made but not sure what to do in 2013.  BTW this blog is now 3 years old!