Tuesday, 23 October 2012

Advice needed

I've been having a bit of a bad run with dressmaking lately, allsorts of problems but mainly around fitting.  I am pear shaped with rounded shoulders and a High Rounded Back (Don’t want to use the Dowager Hump description!!) so I always seem to have to modify patterns a lot and I don’t feel I’m doing it properly and every pattern seems a uphill battle.  Of course Sewaholic patterns aren’t so bad as Tasia is designing for me…

…but the Big 4 are giving me problems and I get very disheartened.  So I came to a conclusion yesterday that I need to find the ultimate solutions to all my problems, specifically the HRB/DH.  I’ve found lots of resources with lots of possible solutions to the problem, ranging from shoulder darts, to a kinda FBA on the back to moving shoulder seams to easing the fullness into the seams.  My first thought was that I would get a pattern that doesn’t work for me and try each method out and see what works the best.  Once I have the best solution I could apply that to any new pattern.  Then I got to thinking, how about I drafted my own bodice pattern?  Surely that would immediately cater for my lumps and bumps as I would have measured around them and dealt with them.  Once I had that bodice pattern I wouldn’t need to buy Big 4 patterns as most of my patterns are the same, Fit N’ Flare dresses so in theory I could use my ultimate bodice pattern, adapt the neckline (scoop, boat-neck, jewel, sweetheart, peter pan), add sleeves (cap, short, 3/4 length, full) and a skirt, (circle, a-line, full gathered etc.). 


I’m fairly conventional in my likes and dislikes and I seem to keep buying similar patterns and I don’t mind wearing the same dress pattern over and over again IF it works for me so why not spend my time building and reusing a block/sloper?  Although I don’t have a huge amount of experience in drafting there are loads of resources out there I could use. 

So what do you think, neither solution is quick n easy, they both require time, commitment and measurements but I can’t decide which to do

  1. Find my optimum adjustments and apply them to commercial patterns as I need to?
  2. Draft my ultimate bodice and use that to design  my own dresses/tops

I think I’m veering towards option 2 as that's always been my long-term goal but I’m just not sure if its something I could accomplish?  What do you think, 1 or 2?

Thursday, 11 October 2012

Flowery work top

Honestly I have been making stuff!  So a month ago I said I got some fabric intending to make Simplicity 2599… well I did!
My family say I look like a teacher in this top so I must have done it right!
I made view E without the side bow.  I liked this pattern its very simple and versatile.  I cut out size 16 and the only adjustment I made was to take the waist in a little after construction, it needs a bit more taken in but its ok at the moment.  I need definition on my waist as it so much smaller than my hips and bust that things just hang off me like a sack and I look pregnant!  I omitted the fastening at the back and just sewed up the back seam, I didn't;’t even have to take the shoulders in which I usually have to do.  I wouldn't make view E again, the fabric is a bit flimsy and floppy so the ruffle hangs down in a little weird way but its ok. I would probably make view D next and give the waist more shaping. 
I had bought 2 different knits with the intention on making a Renfrew or two but then Tasia said she was going to do more detailed posts about the Renfrew pattern so I decided to hold fire on the white with black stripe knit.  I decided to use the coloured stripe to make a dress - New Look 6802.
I’m still working on this at the moment and I’ve made quite a few fitting adjustments so once its finished I can post the details of that. 

p.s. I really like this Skater Skirt from Boden

Does anyone know a good pattern or method for this?  It a wool A-line skirt that when you look at the close-up you can see its pieced together to give the drape.  I'm not experienced enough to work out whats going on... help!