WIP - Simplicity 2588

So I'm working on this months dress which is Simplicity 2588 which is  a Project Runway pattern so it has loads of options.  I'm making the fuller skirt with the thinner yoke.  The bodice has princess seams which I've never done before but really like.  I cut size 18 using Susan Khaljies 1" seam allowance which allowed me to let the side seams out quite a bit but I also pulled the princess seam quite a bit in at the top.  I probably should have cut the size 20 but I was trying to go by my upper bust size.  I extended the width of the bodice where it meets the yoke to cover my bra strap and I'll have to add a bra strap holder as it has to sit slightly wider than I naturally wear the strap.  I did my usual Hunchback of Notre Dame adjustment which wasn't as much as usual on this neckline as its a little lower than most. I wasn't sure which size to cut for the skirt so I marked both the 18 and 20 on my muslin thinking I would grade it to the waistline but actually the 18 is ok.  Using Susan Khaljies method of disregarding the cutting line with seam allowance and concentrating on the sewing line makes this a lot easier as you can have as many sizes markings as you want and adapt things as you go.  Of course I've made the bodice slightly bigger so the size is all academic.  The skirt has a centre pleat and then 2 small pleat on the front which looked good I felt.  The back has 2 sets of pleats which just didn't look right at all!  I changed them to gathers and it looked a lot better with less puffiness and general weirdness going on.  I ran out of normal calico for the muslin so used some cheapo Fabricland poly-cotton I picked up last year for £1.99/metre so its a bit of a unwearable muslin!

No I'm not pregnant!

Sorry for the rubbish photos, I've been using the web cam recently and I think the settings have been changed or maybe the light was rubbish on a rainy day!

So now I’ve started on the fashion fabric, I’ve cut it out and now in the process of transferring the markings. I’m lining it with white poly-cotton. 

I’ve been debating how to line the skirt and I’ve decided to make the shell skirt and then use the finished waistline to cut the lining, so that there would be no pleats/gathers on the lining waist and the lining skirt is more of a trapezoid shape rather than a rectangle shape which has been pleated.  Does that make sense?  Is that the accepted way to do it?  I was thinking of underlining the skirt but I want the bodice lined and wasn’t sure about if I could join a lining to an underlined fabric if that makes sense.   When I made the fuller Cambie Dress the lining is an exact copy of the shell but I find there's too much bulk at my waist especially for my pot-belly!  I have a self drafted a-line pattern which I’ve made 4 skirts from  which I love and wear to death and I keep intending to combine that with a bodice I like to make a more streamlined dress.  Maybe I’ll use this princess bodice on that pattern in the future.  Will have to see how this one comes out.  

Just need to get my butt in gear!  As usual!